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Este blog trata basicamente de ideias, se possível inteligentes, para pessoas inteligentes. Ele também se ocupa de ideias aplicadas à política, em especial à política econômica. Ele constitui uma tentativa de manter um pensamento crítico e independente sobre livros, sobre questões culturais em geral, focando numa discussão bem informada sobre temas de relações internacionais e de política externa do Brasil. Para meus livros e ensaios ver o website: www.pralmeida.org. Para a maior parte de meus textos, ver minha página na plataforma Academia.edu, link: https://itamaraty.academia.edu/PauloRobertodeAlmeida;

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Mostrando postagens com marcador Metropolitan Museum of New York. Mostrar todas as postagens
Mostrando postagens com marcador Metropolitan Museum of New York. Mostrar todas as postagens

quarta-feira, 14 de dezembro de 2016

Jerusalem, 1000-1400: uma cidade para todos - Exposição no Met-NY

Missing...
Saudades das exposições do Metropolitan Museum of New York, um dos melhores museus do mundo, tanto pelas suas coleções próprias (só uma pequena parte exibida regularmente), quanto pelas exposições temporárias. Pelo menos quatro vezes por ano, Carmen Lícia e eu íamos a NY só para visitar essas exposições excepcionais, coletando obras em outros museus e em coleções particulares, de par le monde, que NUNCA MAIS (ou pelos próximos 150 anos) seriam reunidas novamente.
Viajávamos de carro, desde Hartford, dava para estacionar no próprio museu, e graças ao cartão de membro de Carmen Lícia pagávamos moderadamente pelo parking e tinhamos acesso ao excelente restaurante do Museu. Depois da exposição, um passeio por livrarias ou pela cidade era de rigueur...
Esta exposição (e livro) é sobre a cidade mais santa (assim dizem), e uma das mais problemáticas do mundo (depois do Rio de Janeiro, talvez), mas também uma das mais seguras do mundo, pelo menos quando o Trump não está, a mais bem servida por uma combinação inédita de lazer e trabalho (o que não é o caso do Rio, muito menos pela segurança), a capital de pelo menos três religiões (fora aquelas que tem no Rio), e agora objeto de uma exposição especial e de um livro, nas sua fase mais problemática: a das Cruzadas (nada comparável às gangues dos morros cariocas, bem mais perigosas do que os guerreiros medievais).

Vontade de estar lá. Vejam o catálogo.
  • Editors: Barbara Boehm and Melanie Holcomb
  • Publisher: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
  • Pages: 352
  • Illustrations: 354
  • Dimensions: 9 1/4'' x 12''
  • Format: Hardcover
  • ISBN: 9781588395986

    This catalogue accompanies The Metropolitan Museum of Art Department of Medieval Art and The Cloisters exhibition at The Met Fifth Avenue.
    Medieval Jerusalem was a vibrant international center, home to multiple cultures, faiths, and languages. This book explores work from Christian, Jewish, and Islamic traditions, highlighting the patrons, artists, pilgrims, poets, and scholars who represented or adorned the multicultural Holy City, despite often devastating circumstances—from the earthquake of 1033 to the fierce battles of the Crusades.

    Saladin's Treatise on Armor

    Date: before 1187Medium: Opaque watercolors, gold, and ink on paper; 217 folios

    This is the first publication to focus on the 11th through the 14th century, a moment of unparalleled creativity and ferment in this city's complex history. Through insightful essays and nearly 200 works of art, this groundbreaking book explores the meaning of this sacred space to its many faiths, and its importance as a destination for tourists and pilgrims. It examines how Jerusalem sparked the creative imagination of residents and foreigners alike, providing both real and imagined views of the medieval city that served as the crossroads of the known world.
    Barbara Drake Boehm is Paul and Jill Ruddock Senior Curator, Department of Medieval Art and The Cloisters, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
    Melanie Holcomb is Curator, Department of Medieval Art and The Cloisters, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
     
  • Saudades de NY...

domingo, 20 de outubro de 2013

New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art: um passeio pelo comercio de texteis do mundo...

Este sábado 19/10/2013 foi dedicado a uma breve incursão em Nova York, exclusivamente para duas tarefas: resolver um problema de credenciamento de computador e telefones celulares na agência do Banco do Brasil naquela cidade, e uma nova visita ao Metropolitam Museum of Art, para uma exposição temporária.

A primeira tarefa foi completamente frustrada, pois o BB já não mantém um serviço de atendimento nos fins de semana, e sim, apenas libera alguns terminais bancários, o que por si só é insuficiente para tarefas mais complexas.

Já o segundo compromisso foi o mais agradável possível, sobretudo vindo depois de um almoço bastante satisfatório na chamada Little Italy, parte sul de Manhattan, perto da Chinatown.
Comemos no Il Palazzo, que eu havia escolhido para homenager Carmen Lícia, da nobre família dos Palazzos, da Itália.
Este fica na 151 Mulberry Street, NY 10013.
Começamos pelo que mais gostamos: salada caprese (tomate e muzzarella) e calamari fritti.
Depois Carmen Lícia atacou uma salada de salmão, e eu fui de Gamberi scampi (ou seja, camarões grandes) com pasta linguine, embora ela estava quase chegando no tamanho de um fetuccine fino,
Um copo de Chiantti e um com de Riesling, acompanhado por água mineral, terminando com dois cafés expresso.

Finalmente a exposição do Metropolitan, onde só consegui fazer esta foto do cartaz de entrada, pois todo o resto estava "censurado" para reprodução, o que não acontece com todo acervo permanente do museu.

Foram duas horas de cultura, seguidas de uma passagem inevitável pela loja do Museu, enorme, com materiais e livros absolutamente impossíveis para um orçamento normal...

A cidade está ótima, como sempre, e vamos voltar regularmente, pelo menos uma vez por mês. Ainda temos várias outras exposições para visitar...
Paulo Roberto de Almeida

sexta-feira, 15 de março de 2013

A Journey Inside the Whale: no Metropolitan de NY

Fui a New York exclusivamente para resolver um problema bancário, que os funcionários e a assistência técnica incompetente do Banco do Brasil não conseguiu me resolver à distância: terminar de credenciar meu novo iPhone para o sistema BB Code, mais seguro para transferências eletrônicas do que o teclado, mas exigindo uma segunda fase em terminal bancário (que ainda não instalaram aqui em Hartford).
Mas, aproveitando a ida e vinda no mesmo dia, que ninguém é de ferro para penetrar em NY impunemente, ainda almoçamos num restaurante belga (meus velhos tempos belgicanos...) e depois fomos, Carmen Lícia e eu, ao Metropolitan Museum of Art, na altura da 83 com o parque. Desta vez quase exclusivamente as galerias islâmicas, maiores, melhores, muito melhor apresentadas do que as do Museu Britânico e do Louvre (onde estivemos um ano atrás). Excepcional seria a palavra correta, pela diversidade de peças, riqueza do mostruário, abundância pletórica (se ouso a redundância) das informações, em todas as formas disponíveis. E ainda com a facilidade de ter um parking embaixo do museu. Sábado de sol, museu cheio, ruas apinhadas de gente, carro para todo lado, todo mundo fazendo compras e dando uma banana para a crise, o Obama e o Congresso.
Antes de voltar, ainda uma passagem pelo Rubin Museum of Art, especializado no Nepal e no Tibet, na altura da rua 16, no Soho.
Tranquilidade nas estradas e vias de acesso e saída, uma hora e meia de viagem. Absolutamente possível de ir almoçar, visitar um museu, e voltar para casa, até melhor que trem e ônibus. Claro, desde que se disponho de um motorista hábil como este que aqui escreve...
Modéstia à parte, desde que pegamos o carro, duas semanas atrás, viajamos pouco: só 800 milhas, entre Massachusetts (duas vezes) e New York, o resto pelos museus da região.
Paulo Roberto de Almeida

domingo, 30 de outubro de 2011

Arte Islamica no Metropolitan de New York


ART REVIEW

A Cosmopolitan Trove of Exotic Beauty

Ruth Fremson/The New York Times
On Tuesday the Metropolitan Museum of Art opens a new home for Islamic treasures. More Photos »
New York City is just days away from a long-awaited Arab autumn.
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In 2003 the Islamic galleries of theMetropolitan Museum of Art closed for renovation, and one of the world’s premier collections of Islamic art more or less vanished into storage.
The timing, barely two years after the events of Sept. 11, was unfortunate, if unavoidable. Just when we needed to learn everything we could about Islamic culture, a crucial teaching tool disappeared.
As of Tuesday the learning can go forward. The Met’s Islamic collection returns to view in what are now being called the galleries for the Art of the Arab Lands, Turkey, Iran, Central Asia and Later South Asia.
The new, much expanded installation — organized by Sheila Canby, the curator in charge of the department of Islamic art, with Navina Najat Haidar as project coordinator — is as intelligent as it is visually resplendent. The art itself, some 1,200 works spanning more than 1,000 years, is beyond fabulous. An immense cultural vista — necessary, liberating, intoxicatingly pleasurable — has been restored to the city.
As its title implies, that vista has been carefully thought out and framed. Rather than presenting Islamic art as the product of a religiously driven monoculture encompassing centuries and continents, the Met is now — far more realistically — approaching it as a varied, changing, largely secular phenomenon, regionally rooted but absorptively cosmopolitan, affected by the intricacies and confusions of history, including the history that the art itself helped to create.
At the same time certain visual binders are evident. You see one — language — the instant you enter the first gallery. The written word is omnipresent. Whether in the form of love poems, proverbs or passages from Islam’s holy book, the Koran, calligraphy spreads like a fine net over everything, creating an art that almost literally speaks.
“Praise be to God, the King, the pure Truth,” declares a precious scrap of ninth-century silk in characters stitched in red thread. “Planning before work protects you from regret,” intones a big white 10th-century plate that, given the perfect placement of the inscription around its rim, seems to have heeded its own advice. And from a gloriously colored openwork jug — turquoise on top of cobalt blue, day on top of night — a voice as soft as a sigh shares a lover’s confidence: “One moment, while sitting face to face with her I tied my soul, like my heart, to the end of her curls.”
In the context of Islamic art, language is transferable to almost any surface, on almost any scale. And some insist that you can’t really know this art until you’ve experienced Islamic architecture: grand palaces like the Alhambra, tombs like the Taj Mahal or houses of worship like the Suleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, all embroidered with inscriptions.
The Met galleries convey some sense of monumentality in a few long-familiar works. The great 11-foot-high mosaic-tiled 14th-century mihrab, or prayer niche, from a religious school in Isfahan is one. The intact wood-paneled reception hall known as the Damascus Room, decorated with poetic verses that have been placed in proper order with this reinstallation, is another.
Then there are carpets, portable monuments. The Met has spectacular examples. The Simonetti Carpet, woven around 1500 in Cairo and named for a 20th-century owner, is nearly 30 feet long. In dim quarters in the old Islamic galleries it was hard to appreciate. Now displayed in a high, wide room designed by Michael Batista, the Met’s exhibition design manager, and atmospherically lighted by Clint Ross Coller and Richard Lichte, its garden-and-lawn colors — rose reds, grass greens — look tender with fresh life.
Carpets like this one, emerging from imperial ateliers, are partly about look-at-me largeness. But they’re also about close-up detail, and this is the real story of the art of the Islamic world, and certainly of the examples gathered at the Met.
It is over all an art of intimacy; about one-on-one encounters with individual objects, more often than not quite small; and about the endlessly varied orchestration of a small number of visual motifs and mediums, and the minute felicities such variation generates. The alert eye will spot some of the motifs right away: besides the written word, there are images of stars, flowers, figures and abstract shapes, each migrating from one kind of object to another within a fixed repertory of mediums: textiles, ceramics, manuscripts, and so on.
Choose any motif or medium, and it will set you traveling. Images of animals will take you from a gnarled little camel-shaped bottle made with Roman glassmaking techniques in Syria in the seventh or eighth century, to a hefty lion-shaped bronze incense burner from 12th-century Iran, to a sculptural knot of predatory beasts — a dragon attacking a lion attacking a deer — perched on the hilt of a 16th-century Indian dagger.
A gallery of Ottoman Turkish art is a floral detonation, with blossoms imported from China, Persia, India and Europe streaming over textiles and landing on plates, helmets and the most beautiful prayer rug in the world. If glass is your passion, a lineup of mosque lamps, enameled and translucent, from Egypt and Syria will be heaven.
Metalwork connoisseurs will beat a path to a 13th-century brass brazier inlaid with impossibly refined silver and copper designs, and to an astrolabe that calculates your geographic coordinates, your horoscope and the precise times for daily prayer.
If your point of reference in art is the human form, you’ll find it — aggressive, ethereal and absurd — in manuscript paintings, the most famous being illustrations for the 16th-century edition of the “Shahnama,” or “Book of Kings,” produced under the art-obsessed and faith-obsessed Persian emperor Shah Tahmasp.
Written around A.D. 1000 as a chronicle of the pre-Islamic kings of Iran, the “Shahnama,” at least in painters’ hands, is history set in a Never Never Land of martial derring-do and mystical raptures. Heroes skewer demons in lavender landscapes; angels drop from gilded skies to help when things go awry. In the 16th-century edition’s very first painting, “The Ship of Shi’ism,” the Prophet Muhammad appears, his face veiled and wreathed in a halo of flames, as if to extend blessings over what will follow.
For more than four centuries those blessings held, but the book’s modern history has been a disaster. In 1959 the American collector Arthur A. Houghton Jr. bought the “Shahnama” with its original 258 paintings still miraculously intact. Then, committing what some scholars consider one of the notable art crimes of the 20th century, he took the book apart and began dispersing its pages; he gave 78 sheets to the Met and auctioned others. After his death in 1990 his estate tried to sell surviving pages of the book to the Iranian government but ended up exchanging them for an American painting that Iran owned but no longer wanted, Willem de Kooning’s “Women III” from 1952-53. A good deal? You can judge for yourself with a visit to the de Kooning retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art.
The Met’s Islamic reinstallation, which includes (temporarily) a somewhat obsequious tribute to collectors past and present, is mum on all of this, as is the collection catalog, doubtless in part because Mr. Houghton was a long-time Met trustee. Also the story is old, and not so unusual.
Art has always reflected what’s wrong about people as much as what’s right about them. In image after image, beauty is countered by cruelty; utopianism by power grabs. Paradise gardens and battlefields make equally desirable real estate. Yet if treasured objects almost invariably come with ethical ambiguities, one thing is certain: Those objects do keep coming, as recent arrivals attest.
One, on loan to the Met from the Hispanic Society of America, is a tiny Hebrew bible written by a Sephardic scribe named Moshe b. Ya’akov Qalif. When he was working in Seville, in 1472, the once pervasive Muslim presence barely clung to life in Spain, yet the exquisite micrographic interlaces that adorn and shape his text are almost identical to those in Koranic illuminations.
And in the last of the new galleries, devoted to Islamic art in South Asia, comes a 2011 Met acquisition that’s a real surprise. It’s album painting with a Hindu theme: the fierce goddess Bhairavi dancing up a spiritual storm in a cremation ground. The picture is thought to have been a collaboration between two 17th-century Mughal court painters, Payag and Abid, one Hindu, the other Muslim. It was probably commissioned by the Muslim emperor Shah Jahan as a gift to a friend, the Hindu ruler Rana Jagat Singh, who worshipped the goddess.
Here — and over and over again through 15 galleries and across more than a millennium — we’re reminded how fluid a concept Islamic art can be, and often is. If we could ask for only one lesson learned from the decade since the Sept. 11 attacks, surely freedom from essentialist thinking would be the necessary one. That’s the direction the Met’s new galleries take us this fall. In the bargain they give us beauty, spring fresh and second to none.
The New Galleries for the Art of the Arab Lands, Turkey, Iran, Central Asia and Later South Asia open Tuesday at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (open to members now); metmuseum.org.