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Mostrando postagens com marcador Washington. Mostrar todas as postagens
Mostrando postagens com marcador Washington. Mostrar todas as postagens

domingo, 18 de fevereiro de 2018

Oliveira Lima: reabertura da Biblioteca em Washington - JConline

http://jconline.ne10.uol.com.br/canal/cultura/literatura/noticia/2018/02/17/com-raridades-brasileiras-biblioteca-oliveira-lima-reabre-nos-eua-328109.php

Com raridades brasileiras, Biblioteca Oliveira Lima reabre nos EUA

Criada pelo diplomata pernambucano, a biblioteca tem mais de 58 mil títulos, dos quais 6 mil são obras raras

Uma das salas da Biblioteca Oliveira Lima
Leandro Mockdece/Divulgação
Diogo Guedes
JConline, Publicado em 17/02/2018, às 18h00

Na lápide do historiador e diplomata pernambucano Oliveira Lima (1867-1928), em Washington, não aparece o seu nome, mas, sim, uma frase: “Aqui jaz um amigo dos livros”. Para quem não o conhece, pode parecer um exagero, afinal, é difícil imaginar algum embaixador que não tenha algum apreço pela leitura. O caso de Oliveira Lima, no entanto, foi de uma paixão e dedicação bem mais extensa: junto com sua esposa, Flora de Oliveira Lima (1863-1940), ele foi responsável por reunir pelo menos 58 mil títulos.
Depois de uma vida a serviço da diplomacia, Oliveira Lima se estabeleceu em Washington, nos Estados Unidos. Lá, começou a juntar os seus livros, espalhados por Recife, Lisboa e Bruxelas, em um processo que durou anos – e impressionou o casal, assustado com o tamanho do próprio acervo. Antes de morrer, os dois oficializaram a doação que criaria a Biblioteca Oliveira Lima dentro da Universidade Católica de Washington, formando o maior acervo sobre o Brasil no exterior.
Nos últimos dois anos, desde a saída do último curador e a aposentadoria da bibliotecária responsável, o espaço esteve fechado. Agora, reabriu suas portas, esperando receber pedidos de consulta e residências de pesquisadores brasilianistas. São cerca de 6 mil títulos raros, além de incontáveis (e inestimáveis) correspondências com intelectuais, políticos e escritores, quadros e panfletos históricos.
“É essencial divulgar esse acervo, que cobre muito bem os períodos da história do Brasil. A biblioteca esteve fechada porque não havia fundos suficientes para a contratação de pessoal”, conta Nathalia Henrich, que atualmente faz o seu pós-doutorado no local. “Queremos transformar o espaço em um centro de estudos brasileiros, pois a biblioteca está muito além das possibilidades físicas da sua sede.”
O acervo ocupa atualmente quatro salas, que não dão conta da função de biblioteca, centro de estudos e museu. Um dos planos é captar recursos para ganhar um edifício próprio, além de criar bolsas para pesquisadores em parceria com outras instituições. “Ela sempre foi muito procurada e é bem conhecida entre os acadêmicos e pesquisadores. Nos últimos anos, ela não podia recebê-los, só realizava atendimento por e-mail. E, antes, para receber alguém, era preciso um horário marcado, ou seja, ela não tem um horário aberto para o público. A demanda e o potencial existem, mas sempre esbarram na falta de recursos”, comenta a pesquisadora.

ACERVO

É um trabalho complexo definir a importância do acervo reunido por Oliveira Lima. Alguns livros, como o Rervm per Octennivm in Brasilia (História dos Feitos Recentemente Praticados Durante Oito Anos no Brasil, de 1647), de Gaspar Barleus, que narra os feitos de Maurício de Nassau em Pernambuco, só possuem uma cópia além da adquirida pelo diplomata. É o mesmo caso do Relaçam Verdadeira de Tvdo o Svçcedido na Restauração da Bahia de todos os Sanctos, de 1625, documento que descreve a reconquista portuguesa da Bahia.
Nas obras raras, ainda se destacam edições iniciais de Camões e uma das principais coleções de narrativas de exploradores sobre a América do Sul. Ainda está lá um panfleto essencial para a história pernambucana: O Preciso, de 1817, que divulgava os acontecimentos da Revolução Pernambucana.
Nem tudo de mais valioso que pertence à biblioteca pode ficar no espaço. Brazilian Landscape, Probably Pernambuco (Índios na Floresta), de 1669, quadro feito pelo holandês Frans Post, está atualmente emprestado para a National Gallery of Art, em Washington, porque não há como exibi-lo ao público na Biblioteca Oliveira Lima. “Temos várias obras de artistas brasileiros do século 19, mas precisamos de um lugar adequado para elas”, explica Nathalia.
As correspondências ainda merecem destaque. Ali, é possível entender a extensão da rede de diálogos de Oliveira Lima no Brasil, na Europa e nas Américas. O diplomata trocou cartas com mais de 1,4 mil destinatários, muitos deles ilustres, como Machado de Assis, José Verissimo, Euclides da Cunha, Barão do Rio Branco e Olavo Bilac – vários deles colegas de Academia Brasileira de Letras (ABL). Nas correspondências, é possível ver como o colecionador pernambucano foi um dos grandes incentivadores da literatura de Lima Barreto.
O acervo também dá uma visão panorâmica dos debates da diplomacia brasileira. A longa troca de missivas (e os intensos debates) com Joaquim Nabuco são o melhor exemplo disso. Por discordâncias de visões, os dois acabaram por romper a amizade através de uma carta. “Oliveira Lima achava Nabuco demasiadamente pró-Estados Unidos. Nabuco se sentiu atacado por um amigo, e terminou a conversa entre eles por escrito”, relata Nathalia, que estudou o Pan-Americanismo na obra de Oliveira Lima no seu doutorado.

BIBLIOTECÁRIO

Quando começou a organizar sua biblioteca, o diplomata recebeu em Washington a ajuda de um jovem pernambucano que havia, quando tinha 17 anos, batido na porta da casa em que estava com Flora para se apresentar. Era Gilberto Freyre, que via em Oliveira Lima uma espécie de figura paterna. “Oliveira Lima deu dicas a Freyre quando ele foi viajar pela Europa e o aconselhou quando partiu para fazer o mestrado em Columbia. Eles chegam a discutir o tema juntos”, aponta Nathalia.
Apesar de nascido em Pernambuco, Oliveira Lima foi criado em Lisboa – seu pai era português e sua mãe pernambucana. “Ele deixava clara a sua ligação com Pernambuco, pois sempre cresceu com as memórias afetivas da sua cidade natal. Oliveira Lima tem artigos muito bonitos da volta dele ao Brasil. Com Flora, ele voltou várias vezes a Pernambuco. Eles ficavam no Engenho Cachoeirinha, que era de amigos. Passaram longos períodos, mas nunca moraram no Brasil em definitivo”, conta a pesquisadora.
Aliás, é o papel de Flora na construção desse acervo que Nathalia destaca. “Ela morreu depois dele e não só ficou cuidando da biblioteca, como a ampliou. Flora editou as memórias dele e sempre teve um papel fundamental na carreira e vida de Oliveira Lima. Eles eram um casal atípico para a época, porque ela participava da vida profissional dele. Tanto que faço questão de frisar que a doação do acervo foi um gesto do dois”, ressalta a pesquisadora.

domingo, 21 de janeiro de 2018

Oliveira Lima Library, em Washington: a caminho da recuperacao? (OESP 21/01/2018)

Matéria deste domingo no Estadão (Caderno 2, p. C5, 21/01/2018), por Roberta Jensen, aborda a situação atual da Biblioteca Oliveira Lima, junto à Universidade Católica da América, em Washington, que muito frequentei, atualmente necessitada de um bom plano de recuperação, passando por significativo apoio financeiro.
Recentemente, com meu colega André Heráclio do Rego, publicamos um livro sobre Oliveira Lima, cuja informação trasncrevo ao final desta postagem.
Paulo Roberto de Almeida 


Astrofísica da Nasa assume reitoria de universidade nos EUA e resgata acervo de diplomata brasileiro

Duília de Mello quer recuperar a biblioteca do diplomata, historiador e jornalista Manoel de Oliveira Lima (1867-1928)


Roberta Jansen
O Estado de S. Paulo, 21 Janeiro 2018, p. C5.

RIO - Pesquisadora da Nasa, especialista na análise de imagens do Telescópio Espacial Hubble, Duília de Mello acaba de assumir a vice-reitoria da Universidade Católica da América, em Washington. Por ser brasileira, recebeu de seu chefe uma incumbência inusitada para uma astrofísica: recuperar a biblioteca do diplomata, historiador e jornalista Manoel de Oliveira Lima (1867-1928). No porão da universidade, ela encontrou nada menos que 58 mil itens, entre livros raros, manuscritos, cartas, mapas e obras de arte, que formam um dos mais importantes acervos do mundo de história do Brasil. Uma autêntica ‘brasiliana’ – como são chamadas as grandes coleções sobre o País.
Além de livros raros, como a primeira edição dos Lusíadas, fazem parte da coleção milhares de cartas trocadas com intelectuais da época, como Lima Barreto, Euclides da Cunha e Monteiro Lobato. De dentro de um livro aberto aleatoriamente, surgiu uma carta assinada por Machado de Assis. “Toda hora encontramos algo novo”, afirma a pesquisadora, entusiasmada com o projeto inesperado. Diversos quadros de Taunay (1755-1830) e Antonio Parreiras (1860-1937), e um Frans Post (1612-1680) avaliado em nada menos que US$ 4 milhões, também pertencem ao acervo.


Manoel de Oliveira
Duília de Mello. Formando uma autêntica ‘brasiliana’  
Foto: TOMMY WIKLIND
Toda a coleção foi legada à universidade pelo diplomata, enterrado em Washington, sob lápide onde se lê apenas “aqui jaz um homem que ama os livros”. Um epitáfio à altura do intelectual corpulento, bigodudo e polêmico, que colecionava livros e desafetos.  

A biblioteca estava fechada e praticamente abandonada até o início deste ano, quando foi reaberta por Duília. Agora, ela busca patrocínio para criar um Centro Oliveira Lima onde todo o acervo possa ser acomodado de forma correta e acessível a pesquisadores e ao público. 
Formado no Curso Superior de Letras de Lisboa em 1897, o pernambucano Oliveira Lima começou a trabalhar para o Ministério das Relações Exteriores do Brasil em 1890. Trabalhou como diplomata em Portugal, Bélgica, Alemanha, Venezuela e Estados Unidos. Foi o encarregado de negócios da primeira missão diplomática brasileira no Japão e um dos primeiros brasileiros a escrever um livro sobre o país. 
Como historiador, escreveu a biografia de d. João VI, tida até hoje como uma obra de referência sobre o rei português que transferiu a corte para o Brasil. Como jornalista, escreveu para o Estado entre 1904 e 1923, assinando inclusive uma série de colunas sobre a Primeira Guerra Mundial, enviadas da Europa. Foi professor da Universidade Harvard, nos EUA, e da Sorbonne, em Paris. Foi um dos fundadores da Academia Brasileira de Letras (ABL).
Amigo de grandes intelectuais da época, como Gilberto Freyre, Machado de Assis, Lima Barreto, entre outros, Oliveira Lima tinha uma profícua correspondência com vários deles. Também se notabilizou por seus grandes inimigos públicos, como Joaquim Nabuco e o Barão do Rio Branco. Sobretudo, foi um bibliófilo, um grande colecionador de livros raros, obras de arte, manuscritos e recortes de jornais.
“Apesar de toda a sua produção e do reconhecimento que tinha na época, Oliveira Lima não é tão conhecido no País quanto deveria ser”, afirma o professor do Departamento de Literatura Brasileira da USP Ricardo Souza de Carvalho. “Mas é um dos mais importantes historiadores brasileiros dos séculos 19 e 20”, atesta. 


Manoel de Oliveira Lima
Trajetória. De Pernambuco, onde nasceu, a Washington, um homem que amava os livros
Coordenador do Laboratório Líber de Tecnologia da Informação, da Universidade Federal de Pernambuco, Marcos Galindo destaca a importância de Oliveira Lima como jornalista. “Ele escrevia sobre política internacional, sobre literatura, artes”, enumera o especialista. 

“Fui para Washington estudar as cartas, ele tinha cerca de 1.500 correspondentes, praticamente toda a intelectualidade do Brasil e da América Latina”, conta a socióloga Nathalia Henrich, biógrafa de Oliveira Lima, que ajuda Duília na catalogação do material. “Mas aí eu me deparei com os scrapbooks, os álbuns de recortes em que ele reunia notícias de jornais, cópias de artigos, cartas, fotos, cartões-postais, menus; uma janela para entender o que estava acontecendo no Brasil e no mundo.”
Já Duília confessa não conhecer Oliveira Lima, mas destaca a importância do acervo.
“Eu sou uma astrofísica, não entendo muito disso”, diz Duília. “Mas sei que não posso deixar um tesouro histórico desses num porão, sem catalogação e preservação adequadas: quero criar um espaço que seja uma biblioteca, um centro de estudos e também um local de reunião de intelectuais brasileiros na capital americana.” 


QUEM É - Manoel de Oliveira, escritor
 Manoel de Oliveira Lima (1867-1928) foi um diplomata, historiador e jornalista brasileiro. Viveu no Japão, na Europa e nos EUA e legou à Universidade Católica, em Washington, um acervo de 58 mil itens. 




Flora, a parceira que ficou em segundo plano
Mulher de Oliveira Lima falava cinco idiomas, era arquivista e escrevia as cartas e os manuscritos do diplomata
A astrofísica Duília de Mello, vice-reitora da Universidade Católica da América, em Washington, quer dar um destaque especial ao papel fundamental da mulher de Manoel de Oliveira Lima, Flora Cavalcanti de Albuquerque (1863-1940), na construção do acervo da biblioteca. O Centro Oliveira Lima terá, entre seus grandes alicerces, homenagear a memória de Flora e seu legado.
Filha da aristocracia de Pernambuco, Flora falava cinco idiomas fluentemente. Era fotógrafa, arquivista, bibliotecária, responsável pela organização de todo o acervo de Oliveira Lima e como o marido também amava os livros.
“Se não houvesse a Flora, não haveria a produção do Oliveira Lima”, garante a socióloga Nathalia Henrich, que está escrevendo a biografia do diplomata e trabalhando na catalogação do acervo. Segundo a especialista, todas as cartas de Oliveira Lima eram escritas por Flora, bem como os manuscritos originais de seus livros. “Imagino que ela desse muito palpite enquanto ele ditava, mas nunca recebeu a devida coautoria.”
 =================
Nosso livro sobre o Oliveira Lima, recentemente publicado: 

Paulo Roberto de Almeida, André Heráclio do Rêgo:
 Oliveira Lima: um historiador das Américas 
(Recife: CEPE, 2017, 175 p.; ISBN: 978-85-7858-561-7). 
Anunciado no Diplomatizzando 

segunda-feira, 8 de setembro de 2014

Across the Empire (11): de Portland, OR a Tacoma, WA, pelo Pacífico


Crossing the Empire, 2014 (11)
De Portland, OR a Tacoma, WA, pelo Pacífico

Paulo Roberto de Almeida
Postado no blog Diplomatizzando (8/09/2014; link: )

            Domingo, 7 de setembro, foi um dia inteiramente dedicado a uma nova etapa da viagem: saímos de Portland, Oregon, em direção a Tacoma, no estado de Washington, o mais setentrional e ocidental nos EUA, no canto superior esquerdo (não contando o Alaska), em face da Colúmbia Britânica, do Canadá, onde fica Vancouver, nossa etapa seguinte. Em vez de seguir diretamente, pela autoestrada 5, decidimos ir pela costa do Pacífico, e hoje foi verdadeiramente o dia em que acabamos de viajar em direção ao ocidente, parando no Pacífico. Literalmente, banhei minhas mãos nas águas do Pacífico, tendo viajado desde Portland para a costa via estradas 26 e 6, através de uma floresta estatal enorme, milhões de pés de pinheiro, provavelmente replantados.
            Ao subir a costa norte do Pacífico, pela estrada 101– que já conhecíamos de largos trechos na Califórnia –, paramos numa cidade chamada Garibaldi, mas que provavelmente não tem nada a ver com o próprio, a não ser alguma homenagem singela ao libertador italiano por alguns precoces habitantes oriundi. Foi lá que fiz a única foto da viagem, reproduzindo a fachada do museu marítimo. A escultura em bronze do pátio fronteiro não tem nada a ver com Garibaldi, e sim com o explorador John Gray, quem primeiro devassou as costas do Oregon.

            Depois disso, almoçamos num excelente restaurante perto dali: Pirate’s Cove. Comi um sole com amêndoas, e Carmen Lícia um halibut empanado, com fritas, e eu com salada verde. Para acompanhar, dois pinots do Oregon, eu um branco, Carmen Lícia um tinto. No resto da viagem foram apenas paradas para descanso e para reabastecimento. Chegamos a Tacoma, no estado de Washington, cerca de 21hs, para descansar num Holiday Inn. Amanhã passeios na cidade e depois vamos para Seattle.
            Paulo Roberto de Almeida
            Tacoma, 8 de setembro de 2014

sábado, 17 de maio de 2014

36 Hours in Washington, DC - Jennifer Steinhauer (NYT)

Preparando uma visita à capital federal:

36 Hours in Washington, D.C.
Jennifer Steinhauer
The New York Times, May 15, 2014

While most Americans associate Capitol Hill with Congressional misadventures and general dysfunction, thousands of people — senators, reporters, congressional aides, artists, working-class long-timers and young families — call it home. Amid the charming rowhouses and grand federal buildings, Capitol Hill is dotted with restaurants and night spots. Its history is vibrant and largely accessible, from the United States Capitol to the Navy Yard, where the banks of the Anacostia River were once lined with military ships, to dynamic H Street, the site of riots after the 1968 assassination of the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. And don’t forget baseball. Take in a Nationals game, if possible, among cheering fans and very good stadium chow.
FRIDAY
1. Green Oasis | 3 p.m. 
Most tourists are drawn to the city’s spectacular array of admission-free Smithsonian museums, but the United States Botanic Garden is an overlooked pleasure in the shadows of the Capitol. Created by Congress as an instructional garden, this is an oasis of roses; medicinal plants; native, exotic and endangered flowers; orchids; shoots and seeds; ferns and the occasional carnivorous plant and more. You could while away an hour in the National Garden alone, with its Butterfly Garden and the First Ladies Water Garden, which explores the history of White House residents and their gardening interests. Also on the grounds is the lovely Bartholdi Park, where visitors can pick up horticulture tips. No gift shop, no restaurant. Just flowers, and more flowers.
2.  Rose and Rye | 6 p.m. 
By 4:30, locals are lined up for the first seating at Rose’s Luxury, a cultish little Barracks Row spot that has a distinct Charleston vibe. Head upstairs to the bar for a cocktail served in gorgeous mismatched barware. Try the rose-water cocktail, with a generous splash of rye ($11). The fried oysters ($3 each) are among the best you’ll find in any city, and don’t miss the confit jerk chicken ($13).
3. H Street Sustenance | 8 p.m.
Head north to bustling H Street, where gentrification has been slow but steady, to begin the rest of your evening. Start at the Atlas Room, where tables fill quickly and reservations are recommended. Residents know to sidle up to the bar for a bourbon and innovative American cooking, including pork shoulder with eggplant in a spicy peach sauce ($23) or foie gras with truffle vincotto appetizer ($13). The bartender can be a little cranky at first; engage him on the wine list and chickpea dish, and he’ll be your best friend.
4. Pub Crawl | 10 p.m.
Revitalization means the arrival of fun bars and good pie. Start at the Biergarten Haus — try a König hefeweizen — and then head to the H Street Country Club, a multilevel space with table games and an elaborate mini-golf course with Washington-themed holes like one with a replica of the Washington Monument. Round it out at the Pug, a local bar that smells vaguely of a high school party, and also the place where diners wait for a seat at the wildly popular Toki Underground restaurant upstairs, which annoyingly doesn’t take reservations but does serve sublime Japanese food.
SATURDAY
5. Dive Bar Breakfast | 8 a.m.
A family-owned, decades-old dive bar extraordinaire, where Capitol Hill’s older and working-class residents pull on Budweisers and scarf down burgers at night, the Tune Inn is also a decent place to start the morning. The coffee is meh — a problem throughout much of the city — but the French toast tastes of nutmeg, the Irish omelet with grits is legitimate and the service is professional. Expect to pay about $10 for breakfast. If you were hoping to spot Speaker John A. Boehner, hit Pete’s Diner, a few blocks away.
6. History at the Library |  9 a.m.
One of the city’s greatest troves of stories, artwork, history and architecture, the Library of Congress, which began as Thomas Jefferson’s personal library, is often skipped over, although there is much to see here. While it is best known for its ornate main reading room, the library offers a number of exhibits on Civil War history, music, cartography, poetry and the like.
7. For Shakespeare Buffs | 11 a.m.
After the hustle and bustle of the Mall’s Smithsonian museums, like the National Air and Space Museum and the National Gallery of Art, the Folger is a quiet, hidden respite. A “bardophile” paradise, the reading rooms of this library are open only to scholars, although Saturday tours are available; sign up in advance. Open to all at no cost is the world’s largest collection of objects related to Shakespeare and his world, including paintings, etchings, sculptures, books and manuscripts. The Tudor-style theater, based on the Globe in London, has an intimate orchestra level and balcony tiers straight from “Shakespeare in Love.” Plays run almost nightly.
8. Pizza on the Hill | 12:30 p.m.
Sometimes lost in the shadows of We, the Pizza, the “Top Chef"-star-run competitor down the street, Seventh Hill Pizza serves up the real deal: crisp, charred, thin-crusted pizza. Try the Eastern Market with goat cheese, tapenade and mushrooms ($10.95 for an eight-inch pie) or the Potomac Ave. with Felino salami and arugula ($10.95), washed down with a little glass of grenache or maybe a Purple Haze beer.
9. Cemetery Stroll |  2 p.m.
Stretching beneath the unforgiving walls of the city jail is the Congressional Cemetery, with long walking paths and benches. The cemetery is filled with the graves of lawmakers, including Representative Stephen J. Solarz, Democrat of Brooklyn, who once had a nine-hour conversation with Fidel Castro and alienated many in his own party when he supported the Persian Gulf war in 1991; and Representative Tom Lantos, the only Holocaust survivor to serve in Congress. Here, also, is John Philip Sousa’s burial site, marked with a stone lyre, and the grave of J. Edgar Hoover, which is suitably forbidding, surrounded by a wrought-iron fence. The ladies in the welcome center smile as they offer self-guided tour maps. Visitors can pay $10 for a day pass for their dogs to run off the leash among the dead.
10. Straight From New York | 8 p.m.
With Osteria Morini, the New York chef Michael White managed to break the rule about the inverse relationship between food quality and view: Giant windows overlook the Anacostia River and new riverfront park. But be prepared for a high noise level in this bustling spot. Among the best bets are the cured meats with cherry jam ($17), a succulent duck breast with farro, braised greens and cherries ($29) and the mixed grill of lamb, skirt steak, sausage and pancetta ($29). Desserts include an inventive selection of gelati — stracciatella and grapefruit-Campari among them (three for $9).
11. Jazz It Up | 10 p.m.
Not merely a club, HR 57 is a cultural center devoted to the history of jazz and blues. The name of the place is pure Washington: It refers to a 1987 House of Representatives resolution — HR 57 — that designated jazz a rare and valuable national American treasure. Don’t expect ambience: A large old-school video screen flashes acts, the décor is decidedly sparse and drink selection is minimal. But it’s all about the music, and you’ll hear some of the best jazz gigs in the city, including the up-and-comer Antonio Parker.
SUNDAY
12. Pancakes and Crab Cakes | 10 a.m.
The indoor Eastern Market has some competition from the more upscale Union Market, but the food purveyors and artisans make this a draw for visitors and locals who crowd the counter space at Market Lunch for blueberry pancakes ($5.50 for a short stack) or a crab cake sandwich ($9.95), the most vernacular of Washington fare. Then check out the market’s wares, including woven bracelets, or giraffes made out of aluminum cans. If there is time, zip over to the adorable Hill’s Kitchen, which occupies an 1884 townhouse, to fill your suitcase with some crazy, colorful kitchenware.
13. Around the Park | 2 p.m.
End your visit at the sprawling Lincoln Park. On the west end of the park sits a monument to the activist Mary McLeod Bethune, and at the other a striking, and bizarre, statue of President Lincoln holding the Emancipation Proclamation with a presumably freed slave kneeling at his feet. If you need refreshment before hitting the road, head to Ted’s Bulletin, a 15-minute walk away, for a divine milkshake ($8.99); if you’re not driving, get one spiked.
THE DETAILS
1. United States Botanic Garden, 100 Maryland Ave SW; usbg.gov.
 2. Rose’s Luxury, 717 Eighth Street SE; rosesluxury.com.
3. The Atlas Room, 1015 H Street NE; theatlasroom.com.
 4. Biergarten Haus, 1355 H Street NE; biergartenhaus.com. H Street Country Club,  1335 H Street NE; thehstreetcountryclub.com.  The Pug, 1234 H Street NE; thepugdc.com.
5. Tune Inn, 331 Pennsylvania Avenue SE.
6. The Library of Congress, 10 First Street, SE; loc.gov.
7. Folger Shakespeare Library, 201 East Capitol Street SE; folger.edu/index.cfm.
8. Seventh Hill Pizza, 327 Seventh Street SE; montmartredc.com/seventhhill.
9. Congressional Cemetery, 1801 E Street SE; congressionalcemetery.org.
10. Osteria Morini, 301 Water Street SE; osteriamorini.com.
11. HR 57, 1007 H Street NE; hr57.org.
12. Eastern Market, 225 Seventh Street SE; easternmarket-dc.org. Hill’s Kitchen,  713 D Street SE; hillskitchen.com.
13. Lincoln Park, nps.gov/cahi/historyculture/cahi_lincoln.htm. Ted’s Bulletin, 505 Eighth Street SE; tedsbulletincapitolhill.com.
Lodging
The major chain hotels can be found within a mile of the Capitol, but a better option is the Hotel George (15 E Street NW; hotelgeorge.com; from $249), a Kimpton Hotel with a fun George Washington theme and animal- print robes. A stone’s throw from Union Station and the Capitol, it has the added bonus of a very decent restaurant, Bistro Bis, which also has a sexy bar.
A less expensive and slightly less elegant but equally convenient option is the Liaison Capitol Hill (415 New Jersey Avenue NW; affinia.com; from $219), an Affinia Hotel, with 343 rooms and a seasonal rooftop deck and pool, an unusual feature for hotels at this price. Locals still flock to the four-year-old Art and Soul, run by Art Smith, best known as Oprah’s chef.

terça-feira, 2 de abril de 2013

A Journey Inside the Whale: viajando pela baleia

Aproveitando a Sexta-Feira Santa (ou Good Friday, como chamam aqui), Carmen Lícia e eu descemos em busca de cultura (e de um pouco de sol). Fomos a Washington, visitar exposições que estavam pedindo desesperadamente a nossa presença (sem qualquer intervenção divina, claro, seja do Pai, seja do Filho).
Guiados pela encarnação atual do Espírito Santo (que se chama GPS), lá desabalamos pelas estradas do império, contornando aqui e ali os eixos de maior circulação (e maiores engarrafamentos, como em volta de NY) e descemos alegremente em direção da capital da nova Roma (na verdade, ficamos no subúrbio, em Alexandria, uma cidade que tinha o privilégio de ser frequentada pelo Bolívar do Império, o Santo general Washington, uma espécie de Artigas que deu certo..., com perdão dos puristas).
O objetivo era claramente o de visitar museus (e restaurantes, por acaso).
Primeiro foi a Freer Galerie, onde havia uma exposição especial sobre o cilindro de Ciro, o grande rei Persa, muito diferentes de sucessores e antecessores, no sentido em que foi um libertador dos oprimidos, tendo reconduzido o povo judeu de volta a Jerusalém, encerrando uma escravidão de dezenas de anos.
Depois almoçamos em Georgetown, ou perto, no Bistro Lepic, um menu leve, começando com seis escargots de Bourgogne, passando por um foie de veau à Provençale, e terminando por sorbet, enquanto Carmen Lícia comia um belo peixe aos legumes. O mais caro mesmo (54 dólares) foi meia garrafa de Bordeaux, mas millesime de 2004, o que talvez justificasse, como justificou, o valor.
Depois fomos ao museu de Dumbarton Oaks, que só abria pela tarde. Foi ali que se realizou uma das conferências preparatórias de San Francisco, com a participação da China, entre os três grandes (a França ainda não era suficientemente grande nessa ocasião): antiguidades bizantinas, pré-colombianas e de outras civilizações, além da própria casa, que é um primor de decoração.
Jantamos num italiano de Potomac, em Maryland, com nosso amigo Gonzaga, quem nos levou, aliás. Como um belo especial da casa, macarrão linguine aos frutos do mar (depois não houve mais espaço para sobremesa), mas o vinho foi um Chianti reserva.
Sábado começamos por um passeio em Alexandria, com sol e um pouco de arte. Eis nossa foto do passeio, à beira do Potomac, tirada por uma simpática mãe de família americana (eles todos são simpáticos).

Pela tarde fomos à National Gallery, para duas exposições especiais, dessas que reúnem peças excepcionais, dispersas em diversos museus do mundo, e que não se reunirão mais nos próximos 300 anos: a primeira em torno dos pré-rafaelitas ingleses, que acreditavam que a Idade Média era melhor do que a era da revolução industrial.
Depois obras quase completas de Albrecht Durer, o genio do desenho, colega de tantos outros artistas do Renascimento.
Finalmente, fomos ao shopping Tysons Corner, numa grande Barnes que tem por lá: quase compro o livro mais recente do Ian Morris, mas resisti à tentação, tanto por razões de espaço (minhas estantes já estão cheias), como porque dentro de um ou dois meses vou poder comprar por menos da metade do preço na Abebooks.
Domingo, chuvoso e frio, voltamos, mas sem deixar de fazer mais um museu, desta vez em Newark, para ver o Altar Tibetano e outras maravilhas.
Estradas cheias, mas suportáveis, sobretudo quando o Santo Espírito do GPS nos guia por caminhos alternativos, longe das embouteillages do império... (Roma devia ser assim, também, nos fins de semana...).
Uma viagem perfeita, não fosse pelo excesso de turistas e carros, mas todo mundo tem o direito de ser como nós...
Achei também que o número de asiáticos em Washington (e um pouco em todas as partes) multiplicou-se por dez, desde que deixamos o império dez anos atrás.
Eles estão por toda a parte, agora com família, carros de bebê e tudo a que têm direito...
Assim é...
Paulo Roberto de Almeida

segunda-feira, 4 de fevereiro de 2013

A Journey Inside the Whale: Washington, uma cidade de burocratas federais...

Muito do que é dito sobre Washington, pode ser aplicado igualmente a Brasília: essas cidades aproveitam sua condição de capitais de um regime federal para se imunizarem contra acidentes econômicos que atingem outras cidades e estados. Ou seja, independente do estado da economia, os burocratas continuam a ganhar bem, a gastar, a consumir. E o resto da população paga por isso.
Washington também já teve como Brasilia, os piores políticos que se possa imaginar: corruptos, bandidos, ignorantes. Algo se pode consertar, como foi feito em Washington, mas nem sempre.
Pelo menos no que se refere a Brasília, a decadência continua (mas isso a capital partilha com todo o país: estamos num processo acelerado de decadência institucional, de erosão moral, de subdesenvolvimento político e de involução mental).
Aproveitem para conhecer um pouco mais a história da capital imperial.
Paulo Roberto de Almeida

Hail Columbia!
The federal government’s relentless expansion has made Washington, D.C., America’s real Second City.
The City Journal,  February 3, 2013

The Washington, D.C., region has long been considered recession-proof, thanks to the remorseless expansion of the federal government in good times and bad. Yet it’s only now—as D.C. positively booms while most of the country remains in economic doldrums—that the scale of Washington’s prosperity is becoming clear. Over the past decade, the D.C. area has made stunning economic and demographic progress. Meanwhile, America’s current and former Second Cities, population-wise—Los Angeles and Chicago—are battered and fading in significance. Though Washington still isn’t their match in terms of population, it’s gaining on them in terms of economic power and national importance.
Illustration by Arnold Roth
Illustrations by Arnold Roth
In fact, we’re witnessing the start of Washington’s emergence as America’s new Second City. Whether that’s a good thing for America is another question.
Washington is an artificial capital, a city conjured into existence shortly after the Revolutionary War. Its location was the result of political horse-trading. Virginia congressmen agreed to let the federal government assume the states’ war debts, even though Virginia itself was already paid up; in exchange, the new capital would be located in the South.
The city’s early boosters hoped that its location on the Potomac River would help it grow into a commercial as well as a political capital, but that didn’t happen. While other cities got state backing for their business endeavors—a good example is the Erie Canal, built by New York State, which benefited New York City enormously—Washington was run by a Congress more interested in national affairs than in local ones. The city stagnated at first. Its growth finally picked up during the Civil War, but it wasn’t until the Great Depression and World War II, with their expansion of the role of the government in American life, that Washington grew prosperous. During the war, average family income there was higher than in New York or Los Angeles.
It was also a heavily black city—by 1957, the country’s first major city with a black majority. But back in the 1870s, Congress, motivated by racist fears of black votes, had replaced the city’s elected mayors with a board of commissioners appointed by the U.S. president. That change, coming just a few years after black males had won the right to vote in Washington local elections, hobbled the city’s ambitions and set the stage for its troubled legacy in race relations. It wasn’t until 1973, when the civil rights movement had made the disenfranchisement of the city’s blacks untenable, that D.C. regained local control. Unfortunately, a number of factors—including the 1968 riots after Martin Luther King, Jr.’s assassination and a series of disastrous urban policies enacted by the federal government—set the stage for the emergence of political opportunists, including the infamous Mayor Marion Barry. During his tenure in the 1980s, unchecked corruption, ineptly delivered city services, soaring crime, horrendous public schools, financial chaos, and racial tensions made the city a byword for dysfunction nationally. So did the 1990 video that caught Barry smoking crack in a hotel room.
Nevertheless, the metropolitan area surrounding Washington continued to grow and thrive. And when the 2000s arrived, the expansion of the federal government not only catapulted the region into a new league of success but also transformed the troubled city at its center.
During the first decade of the twenty-first century, the Washington metropolitan area overachieved on a variety of measurements versus its peer metro areas—that is, the rest of the ten largest metros in the country, plus the San Francisco Bay Area (which federal classifications divide into two, neither of which would make the Top Ten on its own). Among these regions, Washington ranked fourth in population growth from 2000 to 2010, trailing only the three Sunbelt boomtowns of Atlanta, Dallas, and Houston (see “The Texas Growth Machine”). Washington is currently the seventh most populous metropolitan area in America.
The region has performed even more impressively on the jobs front. Since 2001, Washington has enjoyed the lowest unemployment rate of its peer group. Over the course of the entire decade, it ranked second in job growth, trailing only Houston. That wasn’t just because of the federal agencies and gigantic contractors of Washington stereotype. The region has also been a hotbed of entrepreneurship—much of it, to be sure, dependent on federal dollars. During the 2000s, it had 385 firms named to the Inc. 500 lists of fastest-growing companies in America, according to Kauffman Foundation research—by far the most of any metro area. From 2000 through 2011, according to rankings developed by Praxis Strategy Group, Washington’s low-profile but powerful tech sector had the country’s second-highest job growth, after Seattle’s. The region is also one of America’s top life-sciences centers.
Then there’s economic output. During the 2000s, per-capita GDP grew faster in Washington than in any of its peer regions except the Bay Area. Today, Washington’s per-capita GDP is the country’s second-highest—again, after the Bay Area. Unlike Washington, however, the Bay Area hemorrhaged jobs over the course of the decade. Related to Washington’s impressive output is its astonishing median household income, the highest of any metro area with more than 1 million people. A remarkable seven of the ten highest-income counties in America are in metro Washington. And during the 2000s, per-capita income rose in Washington faster than in any of its peer metros.
Finally, Washington’s population is the best-educated in America. Almost half of all adults in the Washington region have college degrees, the highest proportion of any metro area with more than 1 million people. The same is true of graduate degrees: almost 23 percent of Washingtonians hold them.
The region’s success relates to two larger points. The first involves the fact that prosperous urban regions in America are increasingly divided into two kinds. Some, like the Bay Area, embrace a “vertical” model of success, generating increases in economic output and per-capita income with stagnant or declining population and jobs. Others, like Dallas, are “horizontal,” featuring growth in population and jobs but stagnant or declining output and income. But Washington is an exception: it is the only metropolitan area with a population of at least 1 million that achieves the best of both worlds, combining Dallas-style population and job growth with the fabulous output and wealth of a San Francisco. In that respect, it is a city without peer in America.
The second point to emphasize is the sheer scale of Washington’s performance. If you consider the claim that it’s becoming America’s new Second City an exaggeration, note that its huge recent growth has brought its economic size much closer to Chicago’s—not just in per-capita terms but in absolute ones, too. Back in 2001, Chicago’s economy was 52 percent bigger than Washington’s; by the end of the decade, the gap had shrunk to 24 percent. Similarly, in 2000, total personal income was 62 percent greater in Chicago than in Washington—a difference that had dwindled to 31 percent by the end of 2010. Chicago has just 16 percent more people with college degrees than Washington does. And Washington has more people with graduate degrees than Chicago does and is closing in on Los Angeles.
None of these measurements, by the way, includes nearby Baltimore. The combined Washington-Baltimore area is now the fourth-largest in the country, with about a million fewer people than Chicago. In roughly 15 years, if current growth rates hold, Washington-Baltimore will pass the 10-million-person threshold necessary to be counted as a megacity.
It isn’t just the Washington metropolitan region that’s thriving. The current boom is accomplishing something that previous ones didn’t: transforming the city itself, the District of Columbia. The District’s population grew during the 2000s for the first time since 1950. It suffers less from the problems that once tarnished its image: strained race relations, high crime, ineptly delivered public services, local financial crises. Many city services, such as planning and transportation, have been heavily professionalized and are even touted nationally as innovative models.
True, corruption, especially in real-estate deals, remains alive and well. A parade of local politicians, including current mayor Vincent Gray, is under a cloud, and even Marion Barry is still around as a city council member. But with a torrent of investment, new residents, and prosperity flooding in, it hardly seems to matter. The District grew by more than 1,000 new residents per month between 2010 and 2011. It ended the 2011 fiscal year with a budget surplus of $240 million and the 2012 fiscal year with a surplus of $140 million. In the past, people put up with a dysfunctional city government so that they could be near the federal one. Today, by contrast, the District is a desirable place to live in its own right, much like Manhattan or San Francisco.
This trend is affecting every aspect of urban life. Real estate has been thriving, of course. Washington has the nation’s lowest office-vacancy rate, along with some of its highest commercial rents. Last January, the Association of Foreign Investors in Real Estate put Washington in third place on its list of top global cities for foreign investment, behind only New York and London.
Residential real estate is also booming. “People seem to have a hidden assumption that every house in the District will eventually be crowding $1 million,” wrote Megan McArdle in the Daily Beast in September (adding, however, that “this doesn’t seem possible to me”). Rents are high, with lower-cost apartments disappearing rapidly as investors pay current residents as much as $10,000 to move out so that their apartments can be rented to others at higher rates. In 2011, buoyed by robust demand, builders broke ground on more than 15,000 new apartment units throughout the Washington region. “Much of the building is taking place in the District,” noted the Washington Post, adding that “the vast majority are ‘Class A’ units aimed at young professionals eager to live in walkable communities near shopping and public transportation.”
As that statement implies, the apartment boom is driven by a surge in younger residents, especially in the region’s core. The District owes almost all its population growth to people in their twenties and thirties; 48 percent of its households are single-person, a nationwide high. What’s attracting these upscale young? At warp speed, Washington has become a New York–style urban playground and employment market. As Time recently reported,
every week brings fresh evidence of continuing prosperity: a new restaurant, a new nightclub, another restored 19th century townhouse in a previously dodgy neighborhood selling for $1 million or more. Start-ups are hiring through Craigslist, and just opened lobbying firms have no trouble collaring clients. Storefronts that stood abandoned five years ago fill with pricey gourmet-food shops.
Similarly, Ross Douthat observed in the New York Times that
over the [last] decade. . . . the changes to Washington have been staggering to watch. High-rises have leaped up, office buildings have risen, neighborhoods have been transformed. Streets once deserted after dusk are now crowded with restaurants and bars. A luxurious waterfront area is taking shape around the stadium that the playoff-bound Nationals call home. Million-dollar listings abound in neighborhoods that 10 years ago were transitional at best.
But Washington isn’t Portland, a youth mecca where, the quip goes, “young people go to retire.” Geographer Jim Russell notes that “Washington’s young talent is super-ambitious. They are driven to succeed in a very competitive talent market.” Jobs on Capitol Hill or in high-profile nonprofits are highly coveted and hard to land. Like New York, Washington is one of the world’s toughest arenas, a place where the best and brightest come to prove themselves.
They aren’t just white hipsters, either. The Washington metro area is 26.4 percent black, Number Eight in the country among metros with more than a million people. Stereotypes of the city dwell on its black underclass and its history of electing black nationalist politicians like Barry. But the area has a large black middle class as well—above all, in Prince George’s County, just across the Maryland state line. That county is over 65 percent black, and its median household income is $70,700, making it the highest-income majority-black county in the United States.
Immigrants, too, have been flourishing in Washington. By the end of 2010, nearly 22 percent of the metropolitan area’s population was foreign-born, up from 17.3 percent in 2000—the biggest increase among the ten largest American metro areas. A lot of these immigrants are Latino, as in many American cities. But Washington’s immigrant base is highly diverse. For example, tens of thousands of Indian immigrants, many of them tech entrepreneurs, live near Dulles International Airport, in an area that the Atlantic has labeled the “Silicon Valley of the East.” The region also attracts immigrants from East Asian and African countries, such as Korea, Vietnam, and Ethiopia. Many are highly educated. “We have a lot of really highly skilled, really highly educated immigrants in technical fields,” George Mason University’s Lisa Sturtevant told the Washington Examiner last year. And, Russell adds, “D.C. is a global talent market increasingly on par with New York and London. It is drawing the cream of the crop from around the world, and they are paid top dollar.”
The international origins of both talent and investment in Washington signal something new: it’s becoming an important global city. “In a globalizing world, capitals count for less than global business centers,” journalist Richard Longworth wrote in 2009, adding that “Washington, a one-dimensional company town if there ever was one,” never made anyone’s list of global cities. That view of Washington is increasingly dated. Yes, it’s still a government town, but it’s the town of the most important government there is, and that distinction matters. Washington is home to a massive number of embassies and international institutions, of course. Almost 1,500 foreign correspondents from 113 countries are based there, giving Washington a global news-media reach on par with New York’s. Even domestically, the news media industry has consolidated into Washington, along with New York, writes Matthew Yglesias in Slate. A recent meta-analysis of various surveys by economist Richard Florida ranked Washington the Number Three global city in America, behind only New York and Chicago.
Illustration by Arnold Roth
But what solidifies Washington’s emerging status as America’s new Second City isn’t its economic performance or its emerging global-city profile. Both of those are secondary effects of the real change in Washington: the increasingly intrusive control of the federal government over American life.
Traditionally, Washington thrived through a “leaky bucket” model, redirecting some of the gigantic money flow through the federal pipeline to itself. The 2000s were an especially good time for the region, as two wars, plus 9/11-related defense and homeland-security procurement, fueled the boom. These days, about a third of the Washington-area economy depends on the federal government. But with $16 trillion in national debt and large deficits projected as far as the eye can see, the gravy train may be coming to a halt. Some, like Steven Cochrane of Moody’s Analytics, think that fiscal retrenchment would spell the end of D.C.’s new prosperity. “The days of Washington being the leader in terms of job growth and economic strength are really over,” Cochrane told the Washington Post in early 2011. “I think there’s no way that [the pace of job growth] could be kept up any longer, particularly now that the federal government is undergoing pretty strict [budget] scrutiny.”
The leaky-bucket model may indeed be nearing its limits. But Washington has discovered a new way to extract value from the federal government, based not just on spending but on an ever-expanding regulatory state. An array of programs—the Sarbanes-Oxley and Dodd-Frank acts governing finance; the government’s auto-industry takeover; the EPA’s declaration that carbon dioxide is a pollutant—takes regulation to new levels of detail and intrusiveness, even extending to the micromanagement of particular companies. The trend began long before President Obama took office, but its quintessence is Obamacare, an annexation by the federal government of one-sixth of the American economy via 2,000 pages of byzantine legislation, not counting the thousands of pages of implementing regulations still to come.
All this intrusion emanates from the legislative and especially the regulatory machinery in Washington. The city has become, in effect, the Brussels of America. So a wider and wider variety of businesses and organizations must be located there to lobby the government that decides their fate. (According to the Center for Responsive Politics, total spending on lobbying rose from $1.6 billion in 2000 to $3.3 billion in 2011.) These firms pay local taxes. So do their workers, who also buy houses, patronize stores, pay tuition at private schools, employ local doctors and lawyers, and so on. The regulatory superstate is turbocharging Washington’s local economy.
This new basis for prosperity could pay huge dividends to the region. The model here might be the defense industry, which has already centralized many operations in the area. Northrop Grumman, for example, recently moved its headquarters from Los Angeles to Washington. Boeing shifted its headquarters from Seattle to Chicago to be closer to defense operations and customers in Washington. Other industries, such as health insurance, may follow suit. Even if they don’t relocate to D.C. entirely, they’ll need to be represented there. City Journal contributing editor Joel Kotkin has speculated that “when everything from zoning [to] the location of industrial plants and healthcare is under Washington’s control, the capital could conceivably even emerge as a challenger to New York’s two century reign as the country’s most important city.” The mere fact that such heresy can be uttered illustrates Washington’s new power.
So Washington can boast demographic and economic growth, a highly educated workforce, an emerging elite-global-city profile, and regulatory hegemony that ensures that America will continue to pay it tribute, even if the federal government manages to restrain its spending. This looks like a winning recipe locally, and it gives the region a legitimate claim to be America’s new Second City.
But it’s a loser for America. Even more than the old leaky-bucket system did, the regulatory superstate depends on inflicting pain on the rest of the country, pain that only Washington itself can relieve—if you pay up and have the right connections, that is. Washington’s fortunes and America’s are increasingly at odds. The region is prospering because it’s becoming something that would have horrified the Founders: an imperial capital on the Potomac.

segunda-feira, 8 de novembro de 2010

Seminar: Brazil’s Foreign Policy - A Critical Appraisal, Washington

Seminar:  Brazil’s Foreign Policy of Today and Tomorrow: A Critical Appraisal, November 16, Washington, DC
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The Brazil Institute at the Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars, the Inter-American Dialogue and the Center for Latin American Issues at George Washington University Invite you to a discussion on

Brazil’s Foreign Policy of Today and Tomorrow: A Critical Appraisal

Tuesday, November 16, 2010 – 9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.

Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars 5th Floor Conference Room

RSVP (Acceptances only): james.hodges@wilsoncenter.org

Speakers: Roberto Abdenur, former Deputy Foreign Minister and former Ambassador to China and the United States; Sergio Amaral, former Minister of Development, Industry and Commerce, and former Ambassador to England and France; Marcos Azambuja, former Deputy Foreign Minister and former Ambassador to Argentina and France; Antonio Carlos Pereira, Editor, Opinion Page, O Estado de S. Paulo

Moderator: Paulo Sotero, Director of the Brazil Institute, Woodrow Wilson Center

Discussants: James Ferrer, Director, the GWU Center for Latin American Studies; Peter Hakim, President Emeritus, Inter-American Dialogue

For more information on the Brazil Institute, visit www.wilsoncenter.org\brazil

Woodrow Wilson Center – 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. – Washington, DC 20004