Um Principe viajante: Maximilien de Wied - no Brasil e nos EUA (1833)

BOOKSHELF
From the Rhine to the Wild West
By STUART FERGUSON
The Wall Street Journal, February 2, 2011

The North American Journals of Prince Maximilian of Wied, Volumes I & II
Edited by Stephen S. Witte and Marsha V. Gallagher
Oklahoma, 467 and 571 pages, $85

Four months after Tocqueville, another European aristocrat toured America and wrote down what he saw.

It is Sept. 14, 1833. A small boat begins its trip down the Missouri River from the American Fur Co.'s outpost at Fort McKenzie, near present-day Fort Benton, Mont. The oars are manned by four sturdy men from John Jacob Astor's company. The ship itself carries botanical specimens and cultural artifacts along with food, gunpowder, whiskey, a tame squirrel and two bears in a crate amidships.

As for the human passengers, there are three: David Dreidoppel, a German huntsman; Karl Bodmer, a Swiss painter; and, not least, Prince Maximilian of Wied, an aristocrat by birth and a naturalist by inclination. He is the younger son of a briefly sovereign prince whose territory along the Rhine River near Cologne had been absorbed by Prussia in the early 19th century. Maximilian is now traveling through North America to study the continent's flora, fauna and aboriginal inhabitants.

The prince has already spent an exhilarating five weeks watching as various tribes, including the Blackfoot, arrive at Fort McKenzie to offer their furs in return for trade goods, especially whiskey. As each new group approaches the fort—chanting, firing rifles, carrying flags—cannons in the blockhouse return the salute, the echoes resounding over the river and across the prairie. Outside the fort, the Indians erect teepees with colorful banners atop their poles; horses, dogs and children run about in a happy confusion.

We know about these scenes because Prince Maximilian— arriving in the U.S. just four months after another European aristocrat, Alexis de Tocqueville, had left—kept a journal of his journey, in which he recorded everything, from weather and the workings of the fur trade to riverbank fossils and the wildlife all around: bison, eagles, snakes, wolves and bighorn sheep. He made notes on the vocabularies of the Indian tribes ("the short, abrupt sounds" of the Gros Ventres des Prairies make their conversations "most strange and fantastic") and their styles of face paint.

We see him, at one point, sitting in a ramshackle hotel room in New Harmony, Ind., as his men stuff an American skunk for shipment back to his castle on the Rhine. He is affable when he meets some of America's leading figures. Kentucky planter and pooh-bah James Taylor (a cousin of President Zachary Taylor), onboard an Ohio River steamboat, "spoke at extraordinary length [and] spat all the time like a sprinkling can."

Before coming to America, Maximilian (1782-1867) had fought in the Napoleonic wars and explored Brazil, where the native tribes became his main interest, leading him to North America to compare the two continents' aborigines. Critics had said that the prince's account of his Brazilian travels, illustrated with his own drawings, suffered from a lack of artist-quality depictions of what he saw. Hence the presence of the young Karl Bodmer on the North American travels.

Bodmer's detailed and beautiful images of high-plains Indians—the Blackfoot, Crow, Osage and Sioux—are now iconic, thanks to countless museum exhibitions. But his patron's written record of the journey, from the large cities of the East Coast to St. Louis and then up and down the Missouri River, is less known. "Travels in the Interior of North America in the Years 1832-1834"—with Bodmer's illustrations—was published from 1839 to 1841 in German and eventually appeared in English in a shortened version. It has long been hard to track down.

Now we are getting the original text and then some. The Joslyn Art Museum in Omaha, Neb.—whose Durham Center for Western Studies includes the Maximilian- Bodmer Collection—has embarked on the major scholarly project of translating, annotating and publishing, in three volumes, the full journals from which the prince extracted the material for his "Travels." The project's first volume, published two years ago, covered Maximilian's voyage across the Atlantic and his travels through the eastern U.S. and ended with his stay in St. Louis, where he finally met his first American Indians as well as the explorer William Clark, who gave him maps compiled from his trek to the Pacific with Meriwether Lewis 30 years before.

The westward part of the prince's American sojourn, as the first volume makes clear, came as something of a relief. Since landing in the U.S. Maxmilian had sought the "copper-colored" people and was surprised to find none encamped along the Charles River or lurking around Harvard. The recent second volume of the "Travels" project begins as the prince and his party set out from St. Louis on a steamer with French-Canadian workers from the American Fur Co.

Eventually, after switching to another steamboat and then a barge and heading fully up the Missouri, Maximilian and his party reached Fort McKenzie. Most of their five-week stay was pleasant enough, with the trading Indians arriving and camping out peacefully. But this was the American west, after all. On Aug. 29, 1833, the Assiniboine Indians attacked the Blackfoot encamped on the fort's grounds. The Blackfoot and the whites in the fort—including Maximilian, shooting from the parapet—held the Assiniboine off and, aided by Indian reinforcements, drove them back. With arrows flying over the walls, cannon booming, and Indians mounting charges and countercharges, it was a long, hot day, in both senses of the word. The prince noted that at noon the thermometer showed 84 degrees.

Less than a month later, Prince Maximilian of Wied was headed back down the Missouri River toward St. Louis, though the journey would take months. The second volume ends with the traveling party—having endured river floods and collected more fossils—arriving at Fort Union, in North Dakota, none the worse for the wear and preparing for winter. Volume Three of this magnificent chronicle cannot appear soon enough.

Mr. Ferguson is writing "Ladies of the House: The Rossetter Sisters of Florida."